November 7-12

Nov. 7

When we finally made it to Rabat it took us forever to find the hotel, even with the correct address because our driver had no idea where it was and drove around forever asking directions. When we finally found it in the Medina, it was worth the effort. They provided us with our first taste of sweet Moroccan tea with sesame cakes. Afterwards we had a delicious dinner of tajines with more amazing tea.

 The best tea ever!!

 Rabat from the rooftop 

 Our charming hotel in the Medina 

For the first time I felt really conscious about my appearance and how I stood out as a foreigner with blond hair, blue eyes, white skin. As a woman, I have a heightened awareness here: how I look, how I dress, the amount of men in the area. It shook me up a bit and I could never have done this alone. As Morgan wisely said, "True equality is when women can travel alone as safely as men can, until both sexes have the same level of challenges." This has undoubtedly been a unique and enriching eye opening experience.

Nov. 8

It was my first time waking up to the adhan, the call to prayer. After enjoying a delicious breakfast, we visited the Medina and the Kasbah, old town Rabat. I learned a lot very quickly: ignore people who are trying to give you historical tourist information since they will of course ask for money, when haggling, don't make it obvious you really want something. Play it cool; be disinterested in the going price, walk away until the merchant calls you back with a lowered price. Fortunately people are friendly here and will not be upset if you ultimately don't go with their final price. I was able to carefully observe Morgan's art of haggling and she has been a very ideal traveling companion from her experiences.

Photos from the Kasbah

The feeling of standing out from my Western appearance was undeniably overwhelming for me at first. I wanted to cover my hair and become invisible; it was a very healthy and humbling experience that I really think everyone should experience at least once in their lives. I really felt like an outsider at first, completely out of place.

"Never experienced standing out before?" Azelia asked me. "I can see the wheels turning in your head."

She's right; it's taking me time to take everything in. "This is your first visit to a third world country, right Ashley?" Morgan asked, checking to see how I was doing.

I felt ashamed of my ignorance of how to understand more being in this very new environment, but I am learning fast. I've never felt so self-conscious before about my appearance, but being here in Rabat is very eye opening and I hope it grounds me. I realize more and more how tense I become in situations where I'm in an unfamiliar place, or don't feel more in control of my environment, so being here has been a good challenge for me. I know what to expect in the future. I can own my identity, but not advertise being American (mostly I told people I was from England if they asked).

One of my favorite parts was visiting the beach and walking along the stone path out to the ocean; the sea air raging against the rocks, distant minarettes rising in the fog, the muggy humidity, the feeling of standing in the middle of nowhere, recognizing nothing in the midst of the soothing chaos of the sea. As Azelia said,"I could sit beside here forever."

The ocean side view of the Kasbah

Nov. 9

I am sitting on the rooftop of our hotel in the Medina. The sun is low in the late afternoon and I can see the mosque minarettes and the Hasan tower from not too far away. I am more at peace here than I was yesterday. I savored wearing the hijab as my choice and the humble freedom it gave me. I felt one bit less a foreigner, in touch with the part of me that identifies with Islam. I felt wearing the hijab appropriate here and I feel a little less conspicious. It's allowed me some interactions with the locals I wouldn't normally have had because of the comfortability and confidence wearing it gave me. I was able to exchange salam alaykum (peace be upon you) with a merchant or two in greeting. After I did so, of course, they tried speaking to me in Arabic. I had to explain to them I knew more French. One of the merchants I did speak with, complimented me on the colors of my scarf, the one Haneen gave me.

Another in a bookstore asked where I was from, "Français ou americaine?
"Je suis anglais."
"Pas arabe?"
"Non, je connais mieux français. C'est dommage."
"Oui, c'est dommage."

After buying two books from the shop, one in English and another in French, he said goodbye to me in Arabic; if only I knew more. "Then which will you choose: Spanish, Italian, or Arabic?" Morgan asked me.

I can't choose, but Spanish would be best, but I am drawn to all three for various reasons. Being here continues to bring out that passion. I also successfulIly bartered today to get a good deal on a Moroccan style shirt. It goes perfectly with the shawl Haneen gave me. Covering my hair in the evening also makes me feel better too to try to draw less attention to myself. Yes, the men here, of course cat call us a lot, especially because we'll be walking without a male escort and we're Western women. I think speaking Arabic helps me feel a little more respected.

For example, one man kept on asking us if we wanted a taxi, even after we had said several times, "Non merci." It was only after I told him, "Shukran, mais non," that he left us alone. Next time I come back to Morocco, I'm taking an Arabic phrase book. It would sure come in handy. It gives me some sense of leverage.

 Tea from the rooftop 

And a feast for lunch 

This morning we visited the magnificent Hasan tower, remnants of the oldest mosque in Rabat. I remember studying it way back in high school French class, so it was amazing to see it in person. The whole area of the Hasan Tower is such a great preview to what awaits in Granada with the blending of Spanish and Moroccan architecture.

 Inside the Mausoleum of Mohammed II 

We had quite an adventure heading to Hotel Dolly's where we shared tea together with a gorgeous evening view of Rabat. We made quite an entrance because every single person stared at us. We had certainly just walked into the local hangout spot. Our two waiters had the best time talking to us, mostly in Arabic since they knew little French; we definitely exchanged many laughs with them.

Views of the Medina marketplace 

Nov. 10

I still cannot get over how amazing it is to be here, sitting, relaxing on the rooftop during a gorgeous day, wrapped up in my scarf, just pondering. We visited the ruins of Chellah, an old Roman city that included an old Sultan mausoleum and remnants of a mosque. Ruins are fascinating, almost like playgrounds full of nooks and cranies and in this case huge stork colonies!

 Exploring the ruins 

This evening we enjoyed drinking tea from the Dhaou, a fancy boat that was very relaxing. It's been a special time here, a cause of plenty reflection for me.

Nov. 11

We got up early this morning to catch the sunrise from the rooftop, huddled all under a blanket. I will miss seeing many minarets of mosques, hearing the call to prayer, walking around the medina, and wearing the headscarf. In the midst of being in a very unfamiliar environment, I naturally clung to what I knew, which was Islam. The energy here is chaotic, always moving, hearing so much French and Arabic intermingled together is really neat. I think we are all very grateful to have had this opportunity; it has certainly pushed me out of my comfort zone in the best sense.

Admittedly, I was tense during the trip and had trouble asking for help from Morgan and Azelia from my own pride. I sometimes forgot it's okay to ask for help, especially if you're in a part of the world you're completely unfamiliar with. No one expects you to automatically get it the first time, to feel comfortable. We did have a good time and I think during the last day, or two I was starting to relax more into the rhythm of the city. I think covering my hair in public and speaking to the locals even a little in Arabic lifted my spirits. As Morgan said, I think things like that go along way and the locals appreciate it.

I had to realize, okay, I'm in a new environment with so many thoughts going through my head. I can't simply take it all on my own. Where we are can act as a mirror to our own vulnerability and it certainly did for me. That in of itself was very humbling. I would go back. I already miss the cuisine and the marvelous tea.

Next time in Morocco!