I had an unexpected, pleasant conversation with an older lady sitting next to me on my way to Lourdes. She lives in Bordeaux, but is visiting family in Pau. She loved talking about her love for Italy and the language as well, something we both share. My first view of Lourdes and the Pyrenées was stunning.
Oct. 31
I almost forgot it's Halloween until I saw a child with face paint all dressed up. All the more reason to celebrate at Pizza de Marco, which my guidebook recommended. I did so much today, walked a ton with a total of 22,910 steps and 9.69 miles. It's no wonder I'm hungry for pizza! I was up unusually early this morning from going to bed the night before at 18h. Seeing the light rising on the tops of the Pyrenées was magnifique! It was also lovely visiting the basilica when there weren't a lot of people there. It's incredible, the space. Part of me felt like I was in a temple dedicated to a goddess of compassion and mercy. Marian traditions have very pagan origins. Visiting the grotto was special as well, a site of healing for millions of pilgrims around the world. I heard so many different languages, I wasn't sure sometimes whether I should speak in English or French to communicate. I am moved by sacred sites like those in Lourdes. Walking uphill le chemin du croix was physically exhausting. It was quite the hike and provided a fantastic view of the Pyrenées. It certainly provided some serious exercise as well. Somehow Lourdes is the perfect place for me to do a solo visit. It has personal Catholic roots for me and it's also my first visit in the south of France. Things move slower here than Nantes and I am immersed in legend that has endured here over time.
The grotto, a central gathering site for pilgrims to pray
Mary is queen here
Lower basilica, designed as a temple dedicated to Mary
Le chemin du Croix, "The Path of the Cross"
I also visited Saint Bernadette's house (a saint who experienced 14 Marian apparitions in Lourdes). I met a nice elderly nun who was working at the house. She had a very strong accent when she spoke French. After conversing about Bernadette, she asked me where I was from. When I told her, she said, "I'm Italian (hence the Italian-French accent). I've lived here for a long time." She was very kind and wished me a bon séjour
Afterwards I visited le château fort, which was another long hike, but well worth it. It offered a beautiful view of Lourdes. Later I met a couple at the hotel I met a charming couple, the husband British and the wife from Cameroon. After I told her what I was studying, she said, "Come to Cameroon. The door is open. We need people like you there." That's a thought for the future; they do speak French there.
My view from the castle
Another amazing view from the castle
At Pizza de Marco that same evening, I met a woman who was from Switzerland and who had just finished the Santiago de Compostela. She knows only three Spanish words, so I found that amazing. When I arrived back at the hotel and was able to use the wifi, I saw that Beth had finally responded to my message. She sounded happy about the possibility of me visiting her in Santandor, Spain. It turns out she's in the north, not the south as I had thought.
Nov. 1
There wasn't a lot to do this morning. I lot of shops were closed because it's All Saint's Day. I chose to visit la Cimitière de l’Égalité. There was a memorial built for Bernadette Soubirous' family. When I left the cemetery, there was an older Frenchman collecting donations. When he asked if I was looking for a site to visit, I responded, "La Musée de Lourdes." "Vous êtes anglais?" he asked upon hearing my accent. "Non, les États-Unis." Then he immediately switched to English for practice, while I continued in French. "My father and I were rewarded medals of honor from Eisenhower." "La Guerre Deuxieme." "Yes, wars; there is nothing, emptiness. Mary, she loves children and I have survived death six times and seen many miracles from Lourdes. Vous êtes Chrétienne?" I explained that my family is Protestant, but I felt closer to Catholicism because I went to Catholic schools. I told him I hoped to visit as well the town Lisieux where my favorite saint, Thérèse was from. "Thérèse is very strong, so is Bernadette. They go...beyond. I've seen so many people come to Lourdes: the Dalai Lama, Indians, a Muslim." "Tout le monde, c'est universel." "Yes. God bless et bonne visite à vous." We exchanged bisous and parted. I love chance encounters like that and I've had plenty of them during my time here.
The first cemetery I visited where the Family Soubirous memorial is.
At 11h I went to an Italian mass at the upper basilica of the Immaculate Conception. Being immersed in Italian for an hour brought me a lot of joy. I loved singing the psalms and chants in Italian and I was surprised how much of it I was able to understand. I learned the Italian word for peace, pace and I had a chance to speak a tiny bit in Italian.
La Basilique du Rosaire
I've settled into a relaxing routine staying here in Lourdes: wake up early, go for a morning walk, take a short nap, go exploring, have a late dinner, bed. It's very relaxing.
Later I visited la Cimitière de
Langelle where there was a memorial service taking place. There was also an interesting grave in particular covered with so many flowers: the grave of Père Giacomo. There was an older woman standing nearby who did the sign of the cross in front of it. "Pardon," I asked her. "Qui est-ce qui?" "Il était un saint," she told me. I will have to do some more research about him later.
The grave of Père Giacomo
The 21h candlelit evening prayer procession was a beautiful sight to behold and be a part of. It's certainly part of the Lourdes experience. The prayers start at the grotto rotating from French, Italian, Spanish, German, Russian, and English. Then begins the procession around the escalade where the Joyous Mysteries of the rosary are recited. The symbols of water as a healing source and light as hope resonate very strongly here in Lourdes. A part of me feels very at home here being immersed in a familiar Catholic environment, not to mention the town is peaceful and relaxing.
Not my photo, but wanted to give the idea of what it is was like. There wasn't nearly this many pilgrims during the winter, but during the spring and summer, it must be massive numbers, so I'm glad I went during a quieter time.
I saw the couple again that I had met before and I liked what the Englishman said to me about my visiting Lourdes alone. "You're a wanderer." That is the truth. Elise described Lourdes best for me as being like a home away from home; she is so right.
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