After my two morning classes, I took some time to go do some solo sightseeing. I did plenty of this during my last time in France and it feels good often to go off and explore alone too. My host mom gave me a guide book when I arrived of hidden treasures in Nantes. I took the tram to Viarme, which is in the Quartier Hauts-Pavé, a quieter area of town. Turning a corner, I chanced upon what I was looking for: La Cimetière de la Miséricorde. It's very impressive, covering nine acres and divided into different sections. It's probably the largest cemetery I've ever visited, aside from the WWII memorial for American soldiers in Normandy. It was pleasant walking around, searching for two particular graves in my guidebook; yes, a scavenger hunt in a huge cemetery, but my efforts were successful. There were a number of mausoleums whose doors had come off, or had been broken into. Interestingly enough, during the Revolution, the cemetery was ravaged by the Chouans in 1793, a group (mostly French royalists) who were against the French revolution and led a revolt known as the Chouannerie. They destroyed a lot of the cemetery originally. I liked how neo-gothic the cemetery was, and in general I like French cemeteries: they have dramatic and haunting religious imagery. I remember one of the IES students remarking how in Mexico, for example, death is more of a celebration of life with colors, whereas French cemeteries reflect a far more somber tone towards death. Both culture's views on death really juxtapose each other.
Tomb of Van Neuman
(Mentioned in the guidebook)
Memorial for Pierre Haudaudine,
member of the national guard of Nantes and le Reglus nantais,
with a laurel symbolizing eternity and glory during the Roman times
After asking for directions, I also found L'Église Saint-Simillien, which is described in my guidebook as a church without bells. Originally named Saint-Sambin, it was the oldest church in Nantes and was reinstated a century later after its fall. The bells exist, but in the interior of the sanctuary. Unfortunately it was closed today, but I would love to go to mass there, or really to any church in Nantes. That would be a treat. I also just love sitting inside them, taking in the silence; it's very relaxing and with the background Gregorian chant, I probably could have fallen asleep if I continued to sit for a long time inside Saint Nicholas. It was very relaxing and peaceful: it's special to find pockets of quiet and serenity in the city.
Église Saint-Simillien
The exterior & interior of Église Saint Nicholas
No comments:
Post a Comment