December 29-30 2014

December 29,

We experienced more of Venice exploring Piazza San Marco in the daylight. So glad no one is allowed to take photos inside St. Mark's Basilica; it would take away from the energy of the space; the gold tiled domes are incredible and the overhanging lamps are very Moorish. I recently found out from asking a local what the symbolism of the winged lion statue meant. It's very much present in the art here and sculptures on the outside of the basilica. It's the symbol for the Evangelist, St. Mark. The four Evangelist writers of the New Testament each have an iconography symbol: Matthew is the angel, Mark is the winged lion, symbolizing courage and monarchy, a symbol for the Resurrection and Christ as the King, Luke's is the winged ox/bull for service and sacrifice, and finally John, the eagle, because his gospel is unique and soars over the rest. Iconography is very prevalent here, especially in the basilica and shrines of Mary I've seen around the city.

 Seen on a Venice morning

 Near the iconic Rialto bridge 

 Exterior of St. Mark's basilica

 One of the first digital clocks, the numbers changing with the analog clock, along with the sound of the Moor statues with their clappers. According to Rick Steve's guidebook, one of the them hit a worker and it killed him; "probably the first ever killing by a robot." Notice the winged lion, the symbol of St. Mark. 

 Staying warm in cold Venice

Bathtub books. Bookstore Acqua Alta, where the bookseller, Luigi, keeps his books stacked in tubs and gondola in preparation for the next flood. 

We also took a pleasant canal trip, witnessing the islands at sunset. Venice is magical under the stars amid quiet streets, so many bridges for secret rendez-vous, abandoned houses rotting with decay surrounded by Moorish style palaces; the atmosphere of the city is bittersweet, floating as a world treasure, an unraveling fantasy. It can't last forever. It's no wonder so many authors have found so much inspiration from its energy and historic architecture. I find the amounts of tourist crowds often exhausting, so it's always a relief to find places where a few locals hangout.

 Shrines like these can be found everywhere

Proof no is universal 

December 30.

We started off our morning visiting the Mercato da Pesce and the produce market. This is the atmosphere to practice Italian, enjoy less tourist crowds, see locals, especially older Italian woman dressed in fancy fur coats. The coffee was the best in the area too and a good deal! I love knowing exactly where the food comes from; dates from Tunisia, sun dried tomatoes from Sicily. Fantastic way to begin the day!

Afterward we took a half hour ferry ride to Burano, an island with colorful houses known for its handmade lace. The locals were so friendly, charming, and the Italian men, of course, flirtatious with us. One lace shop we visited, the store lady only spoke to us in Italian, which I loved. I had to really listen, but I understood her fairly well most of the time, occasionally speaking back in French. I could tell she understood me as well. This is the island for weddings and baptisms, because the lace is so perfect for both occasions. The town has such personality with a crooked, leaning church steeple and locals who continue the family business of lace making, along with plenty of fishing. It was a relaxing relief from the chaos of Venice. We didn't want to leave.

 Burano certainly has personality

 Delicious clam spaghetti, some of the best I've had

On our way back, my aunt had a chance to talk to a handsome Italian medic in Spanish. He joked they have to go pick up everybody for so many reasons, somebody falls, heart attack, or even a bad finger. It's quiet impressive their water ambulance system.